On the trail of the poet in his birthplace, you will see where Dante was born and lived, right in the heart of the city. Visit the Church of Santa Margherita dei Cerchi, where he first met the beautiful Beatrice, participate in a journey through Dante’s political life, and explore the sites where he engaged in civic duties as part of Florence’s governance.
Florence, the Birthplace of Dante Alighieri
“I was born and grew up on the beautiful Arno in the great city” (Inferno XXIII, vv. 94-95). As Dante and Virgil traverse the Malebolge in the Inferno, they encounter the hypocrites wearing golden cloaks lined with lead. One recognizes Dante by his Tuscan accent and asks who he is. Dante identifies himself as Florentine, calling the Arno “beautiful” and Florence “great,” expressing nostalgia for his homeland and pride in his illustrious city. Dante Alighieri was born in May 1265 into a Guelph family of noble origin, though not particularly wealthy or influential.
The exact location of the Alighieri family home was lost to history but was rediscovered in the early 20th century through historical and literary research. It was in the heart of Florence, opposite the Church of San Martino and near the Church of Santa Margherita dei Cerchi, surrounded by towers of various political factions. Today, the reconstructed “Casa di Dante,” built in 1911 as an evocative homage to 13th-century architecture, houses the Dante Museum. Visitors can learn about his life, from his education and his love for Beatrice to his role as a knight at the Battle of Campaldino and his political career, which culminated in accusations of corruption and lifelong exile.
Dante and the Baptistery of Florence
A must-see on Dante-themed tours is Piazza del Duomo, particularly the Baptistery. By the late 13th century, Florence’s public religious and political buildings were scarce. While Santa Reparata still served as the cathedral, the Baptistery stood out as an architectural marvel with its classical design and striking marble facade. Dante cherished it, famously calling it “my beautiful San Giovanni.”
Education and Influence: Brunetto Latini
Dante’s noble lineage allowed him access to education, likely beginning with a private tutor and progressing to studies at Santa Croce’s Franciscan convent.
One of his most influential teachers was Brunetto Latini, a scholar, notary, and author of the first vernacular encyclopedia, Il Tresor. Latini’s tomb, found in the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, is a hidden treasure on the Dante tour.
Beatrice: Dante’s Muse
“Nine times already since my birth had the heavens returned to nearly the same point when the glorious lady of my mind appeared before my eyes, called Beatrice by many who did not know her name.” (Vita Nova)
The tour passes by Santa Margherita dei Cerchi, a small Romanesque church where tradition holds that Dante encountered Beatrice Portinari, his muse, immortalized in La Vita Nova and the Divine Comedy.
Although her burial place is debated,
her family’s tomb lies within the church.
Beatrice, the daughter of Folco Portinari,
lived in her family home on Via del Corso, later the site of Palazzo Portinari Salviati.
Her brief life, her marriage to Simone dei Bardi, and her death at just 24 profoundly influenced Dante’s works.
Dante’s Political Career in Florence
As a knight, Dante fought in the Battle of Campaldino at age 24, helping secure the Guelph victory over the Ghibellines. His political engagement began later, during a period when nobles were allowed back into governance through guild memberships. Dante joined the Guild of Physicians and Apothecaries, which also included painters like Giotto.
In 1295, he served on the Council of the Captain of the People, and a year later, he became a Prior of the Arts, Florence’s highest executive office. His time as prior, however, marked the beginning of his downfall, leading to accusations of corruption and eventual exile.
Inferno’s Florentine Characters
The Dante tour takes visitors through medieval Florence, recounting the stories of figures immortalized in the Divine Comedy:
- Bocca degli Abati, the traitor placed in the frozen lake of Cocytus.
- Corso Donati, leader of the Black Guelphs.
- Filippo Argenti, punished for wrath in the Inferno.
- Buondelmonte dei Buondelmonti, whose murder ignited the Guelph-Ghibelline conflict.
Dante’s Cenotaph in Santa Croce
Though Dante died in Ravenna in 1321, Florence has long sought to reclaim his remains.
His cenotaph in Santa Croce honors him, while his actual tomb lies in Ravenna’s neoclassical monument by Camillo Morigia.
Every September 14, Florence presents olive oil to light the votive lamp in a symbolic act of reconciliation.
Dante’s enduring legacy is celebrated in Florence through these landmarks, offering a deep connection to the poet who gave voice to its beauty, grandeur, and struggles.
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